DZHUS presented their AW23 “TRANSIT” collection at Berlin Fashion Week. The collection features complex-cut multifunctional pieces designed to adapt to diverse purposes, weather conditions, and dress codes. The transformable looks symbolize the resilience of Ukrainians who have faced drastic changes beyond their control and have emerged stronger and future-oriented.
Supported by the Senate of Berlin, DZHUS’ performance during the fashion week was a captivating experience. Designer Irina Dzhus showcased the metamorphosis of universal wardrobe items, representing the inevitable changes experienced by Ukrainians after enduring the impact of war. The collection embodies the superhero-like qualities of those who have had to adapt and rebuild their lives.
Architectonic silhouettes dominate the AW23 line, surprising with their flexibility in terms of wearability. Trousers transform into dresses and jackets, coats become jumpsuits, and sleeves can be modified into hoods and vests. The garments also double as bags, hats, and even jewellery. Textured pieces of cotton, knits, see-through rayons, and distressed finishes enhance the dramatic effect of the collection.
The design concept incorporates pockets and bags as an allegory for the evacuation process that millions of Ukrainians had to go through, carrying only their essential belongings. Symbolic items became more valued than practical ones, evoking a touching sentiment.
Some outfits in the collection transition from exaggeratedly utilitarian unisex silhouettes to delicate feminine looks and vice versa. This represents individuals’ profound changes under extraordinary circumstances, often involving heartbreaking decisions. The standout piece is a bulletproof-vest-inspired overall that transforms into a colossal coat with a sheer hood, symbolizing the guardian angel of an unbreakable nation.
Show music by EYIBRA. Ethical footwear is provided by House Martin. Show partners: the Senate of Berlin, NEWEST, Stilwerk, La Biostheque.