Named “TRANSIT”, DZHUS AW23 collection of complex-cut multifunction pieces is designed to serve diverse purposes, weather conditions and dress codes. Transformability of the looks pays tribute to the drastic changes all Ukrainians have faced in the circumstances they could not affect. Having survived, they gained strength and became more future-oriented.
Photos – courtesy of Anna Goncharova ©
DZHUS performance at Berlin Fashion Week was an unparalleled, mesmerising experience, as the designer showed metamorphosis of universal wardrobe items in front of the audience. DZHUS AW23 presentation and showroom took place at Milan Design Week.
“The war has divided every Ukrainian’s life into ‘before’ and ‘after’. As I think of my countrymen and countrywomen, who have lost everything and had to embrace new hypostases of themselves in order to survive, I want to portray those superheroes and their inevitable change in a symbolic way.” – Irina Dzhus shares. The AW23 line consists of architectonic silhouettes which are surprisingly flexible when it comes to wearability: trousers turn into dresses and jackets, coats become jumpsuits, sleeves are modified into hoods and vests. Many of the garments transform into bags, hats, and even jewellery. In the AW23 line, Irina Dzhus used a variety of textured cottons and knits, see-through rayons and edgy pleats, whereas distressed finishes enhance the dramatic effect. Many of DZHUS AW23 designs are conceived around pockets and bags, as an allegory for the evacuation process millions of Ukrainians went through, having taken only the belongings they could carry. “Many have preferred symbolic things to practical stuff, which is so touching…” – Irina recalls.
Some of the outfits offer a transformation from an exaggeratedly utilitarian unisex silhouette into a fragile feminine look and vice versa. That is an allusion to the inevitable change of a personality under the influence of force majeure circumstances, often demanding heart-breaking decisions. The key piece of the collection is a bulletproof-vest-inspired overall turning into a colossal coat with a sheer hood, referring to an angel-protector of the unbreakable nation.
Photo: Anna Goncharova
Styling & makeup: Irina Dzhus
Models: Agnessitta, Daryna Trukhachova
Styling assistants: Maryna Kovalchuk , Maria Tratsiakova
Ethical footwear: House Martin
