Photos: Giorgio Armani
A glowing world; a lustre that stems from the very nature of the fabric and its transformations; a flash of fur that changes the perception of garments. A glamorous project by choice and intention, Emporio Armani focuses on mineral colours such as stone greys. These are splintered, crushed and pulverized rock tones that display a sophisticated iridescent effect, with blue that fades into darker shades of rhubarb — metropolitan hues that emphasize the link with the city.
The new silhouette offers a sense of momentum. The slightly shorter jacket with three or four buttons has a small, high lapel, with slim trousers that end at the ankle. Knee-length coats accentuate an impression of lightness through their fine fabrics and careful construction; parkas render movements fluid. Fabric bombers affirm an ironic taste for modern classics, which is the collection’s hallmark. New rules mark the choice of fabrics: small, faux weaves have disappeared, while fluid and unbelievably thin loom-worked jacquard takes over. Glencheck becomes dégradé and wool takes on a fur effect, like a subtle astrakhan or moiré.
Even the shirts are made in jacquard, with a slight chiaroscuro effect as if on an icy surface. To give flexibility and comfort, the sleeves and backs of jackets, shirts and blouson jackets may be of soft jersey. A new generation of sweaters with faux fur inserts (as appliqué or replacing the entire front) become the antithesis of the classic pullover. A completely closed and buttonless variation of waistcoat emphasizes the dandy spirit. Bags that recall and develop the collection’s themes are special, from their use of moiré to fur, with amazing effects achieved by blotting and softening the leather. An unexpected twist lies in the necktie, bow tie and the pony skin clutch.
